You might try sitting in it to make sure there’s no wobble, or you can just fill it with water and push down on the tub from the sides to be sure it is solid on the base. Get a friend to help you set the tub on its footings and check for stability. Set the tub on the footings and test it before using. This will let you fill your tub higher, so when you get in the water level will rise right to the top. Apply a similar square on the outside of the holes and through-bolt with a few small bolts with nuts and washers. Apply a ring of exterior silicone caulk around the three holes for the spigots and press a small square of plywood against it.
#Hkole icon cast tub full#
In setting your tub to level, it will be more stable and you’ll be able to fill it close to the top for a more enjoyable soak.Ī 2/3 full tub is not good enough for diehard hot-tubbers. It is important to use a carpenter’s level to ensure the tub is level both lengthwise and across from side to side. Stack one or two bricks for each tub foot as necessary to achieve a level base, then backfill and tamp down the soil firmly around the bricks. Measure the space between the feet on your tub and set bricks into the ground to serve as the base. If someone else wants to start another tub of water heating, the fire pit will be ready to go. This way the draining tub will not flood the fire pit. While you’re in digging mode, dig a depression where the tub will drain, and dig a small channel to direct the draining water away from the fire pit. A pit roughly circular in proportion will suffice. The fire pit should be centered beneath the tub, but does not need to be as wide as the length of the tub. This should be about 18” below the bottom of the tub, to allow for the lining rocks and to create plenty of height space for the fire.
Once the ground is cleared for the tub, and the dirt is removed down to mineral soil, dig a hollow spot for the fire pit. Dig a low spot for the fire and line it with rocks. The ground should be level around the tub to make it safe for building a fire and for getting in and out the tub in slippery conditions.Ģ. The first consideration is fire safety, so be sure your site is well clear of brush, overhanging branches or any other flammable material. You’re going to love your ‘poor man’s’ hot tub, so choose the location carefully since you’ll be spending lots of time there. Prepare a clear, level site for the fire pit and tub. Because of the risk of movement, discard the pine flooring and replace with 18mm WBP plywood screwed to the joists at 150mm spacings.How to Build a 'Poor Man's' Hot Tub 1. Next drill a pilot hole and fix the wood with screws. This should be a millimetre or two longer than the space to ensure a tight fit. To strengthen the floor, work out roughly where the bath feet will stand and fix some extra noggins between the joists to stiffen the structure by carefully cutting from a minimum 150mm x 50mm piece of timber, a piece of wood for each of the joists. Here's how: Start by removing the skirting and then the floorboards or sheet flooring. Or, if you're proficient at DIY, you could try strengthening it yourself.
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If you're concerned about the strength of the floor you could ask a professional to check and reinforce it for you. Both floor systems are normally strong enough to support the weight of a cast-iron bath filled with water, and a person. Older houses – pre-1980s – have wooden floor joists covered with pine floorboards. These are covered with green moisture- resistant chipboard flooring in 2400mm x 600mm tongue and groove sheets.
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TV builder and DIY expert, Tommy Walsh, says: Most houses built in the 1980s and onwards have upper floors constructed from traditional wooden floor joists. Question: 'I'd love a freestanding cast-iron bath but I'm not sure the floor in my bathroom would be strong enough to support it. Ask the experts: Our expert panel answer questions on DIY, eco design, mortgages, cleaning, architecture, consumer issues and more
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